‘Every Cook Ought to Study At This Spot’: Unassuming Turkish Eatery Ranks 4th on List of London’s Top Food Spots.
Whenever curating a roll of London’s top eateries, one might foresee familiar award-winning venues. However, tucked high among these gastronomic giants is a unpretentious salonu located in a far-flung corner of northern London.
An Shocking Accolade
The compact Turkish eatery, concentrating in the street food of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s south coast, has been declared the 4th finest restaurant in the capital by a prominent culinary publication. The recognition has made the owners completely astonished.
“I am completely astonished,” states the owner’s son, alluding to his family’s dedication that resulted in their small shop earning such a lofty position on a prestigious 99-strong list.
A Charm of Simplicity
The little venue, which used to be a basic cafe before its change into a buzzing spot, has kept much of its earlier feel. It accommodates just over 20 people and, beyond the vibrant live cooking show, the interior remains largely unchanged. “It’s a compact and cozy place,” says the owner.
A Star Dish: Tantuni
Ultimately, it is all down to the cuisine, and this establishment more than excels. The restaurant’s signature dish, tantuni, is a simple delight. The meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to preserve a moist, juicy consistency.
It is then tossed into a massive pan with spices and oil, which are incorporated in slowly. As the flavourful mixture starts to simmer, homemade lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is placed on top to take in all the aromas. Finely sliced onions and a handful of parsley go inside before the flavourful meat is folded tightly inside.
It is usually enjoyed with a squeeze of lemon or some pickles. The final product is a mighty slap of flavour, with soft hints of sumac, bold onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil bringing it all in harmony.
Other Than the Classic Tantuni
There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is chopped and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. The prominent food critic described this dish “a part of London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.
For sweets, the restaurant’s künefe proves a treat. It is soaked in less syrup than usual, imparting it a deeper, nuttier and less sickly flavour.
Surpassing the Titans
Remarkably, this modest spot has been placed higher than several illustrious three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself near the top of the list, trailing other notable dining destinations.
While two people could readily leave the restaurant satisfied for under £25, similar tasting menus at high-end establishments can cost significantly more than that figure.
A Ethos of Warmth
The restaurant is also part of several Turkish restaurants listed and is located well outside the city’s central zones. “It’s not focused on luxury. London is an costly city. It is belief that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the best service and best food but I don’t subscribe to that,” explains the owner.
“In my view what is most important is friendliness, friendliness and a place you can be yourself and be calm.”
This view is supported by the list’s editor, who stated that if he was in a role of power, he would “require to have every chef in London come to this restaurant as a finishing school, to show them the traps of overcomplication, and to show what is attainable if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their absolute best”.
A Story of Dedication
Unlike most chefs managing kitchens in the list’s top ten, the head chef behind the food didn’t train at fancy establishments. “I am very happy of our shop and our mum,” adds her son.
Many restaurants need years to become successful, but this eatery first started seven years ago. Its popularity is thanks to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of effort.
“My mum was extremely tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. All of it is handmade; she would manage all of this. She is a solo parent and she balanced a social life but her friends would visit to encourage her. She had children and a house to care for as well. All of these duties forged her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he says.
A Achievement for the Community
This restaurant’s recognition is bound to resonate outside its own premises. “I believe numerous people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” says the owner, highlighting the greater significance of this gastronomic honour.